Conversation about the weather is the last refuge of the unimaginative. ~ Oscar Wilde
Don't knock the weather; nine-tenths of the people couldn't start a conversation if it didn't change once in a while. ~ Kin Hubbard
The trouble with weather forecasting is that it's right too often for us to ignore it and wrong too often for us to rely on it. ~ Patrick Young
Weather forecast for tonight: dark. ~ George Carlin
Weather means more when you have a garden. There's nothing like listening to a shower and thinking how it is soaking in around your green beans. ~ Marcelene Cox
There are many ways to think about the weather. All kidding aside, weather is an important consideration in many jobs–construction crews, snow plowers, professional baseball players, farmers, pilots, dog trainers and gardeners.
And since we've had several weeks of confusing, goofy weather, let's review essential information for our area.
Spring frost-free dates. Plants that aren't hardy in our region or hardy plants that haven't been acclimated properly are vulnerable to cold temperatures, not to mention snow. According to the State Climatology Office of the Minnesota DNR, Pine County has four regions for spring frost-free dates.
• May 22 – May 28: narrow band that follows the curved southeast state boundary line. • May 29 – June 4: southern portion of a horizontal line dividing the county in half. • June 5 – June 11: northern portion of a horizontal line dividing the county in half. • June 12 – June 18: extreme northwest corner.
What about my plants? These plants are fine outside now: ~ cold-hardy annuals such as pansies and violas ~ cool season vegetables and herbs ~ bulbs whether in containers or in the ground ~ any plants in the garden from last year including perennials, vines, shrubs and trees ~ hardened-off perennials still in containers ~ perennial fruits and vegetables like rhubarb and asparagus
Wait to put out or plant these plants: ~ warm season vegetables, fruits and herbs ~ most annuals ~ tropical plants ~ greenhouse-grown plants
Forecast. According to several local meteorologists, warm Marches and Aprils are usually followed by cooler Mays and Junes. Rats. But at least we'll have something to talk about.
Finally… If, on a recent visit to a nursery, you couldn't resist the siren song of that lush hanging basket or the temptation of several pots of fresh herbs, don't despair. There are always options.
#1. Cover. If plants from the second list are planted outside and the forecast is grim, cover with sheets or blankets.
#2. Bring inside. If plants from the second list are outside but still in containers and the forecast is grim, ask nicely for help and bring all inside for the evening.
#3. Punt. Even though this current arrangement wasn't part of my plan (see photo), the three annuals look quite cute lined up in my indoor window box. Two bright coleus, 'Golden Bedder' and 'Rustic Orange,' are paired with a New Guinea impatiens, 'Riviera Blue Improved.'
This also appears in the Askov American, Askov, Minnesota.
So you've chosen some raspberry plants or perhaps two or more cultivars of blueberries. Let's make sure those new plants have the best possible chance for survival…guaranteeing gleaming bowls of fresh fruit in a season or two.
As with any plant, the key to long-term health is my #1 rule: choose the right plant for the right spot. Do your homework! Learn the soil, exposure and light requirements of your chosen plants and then follow through. Understand that you can't completely alter your soil. Work with what you've got.
Dig the hole. Digging the proper hole is the most important step.
Dig a hole that is 2 – 3 times wider than the container and at a depth where the root collar will be 3" above the soil line. The root collar is the flared area at the base of the stem or trunk where the first set of larger roots begins to grow out laterally. Finding the root collar might mean gently removing soil away from the stem or trunk on the top of the container.
Roughen up the sides of the hole. Do not loosen soil in the bottom of the hole as this could allow the plant to settle.
Plant the plant. Carefully remove the tree or shrub from the container. If it's difficult to remove, slice the pot on one side and around the bottom and then peel away the container. If the soil in the pot will not hold together, cut away the container once inside the planting hole.
If the root system is growing spirally around the container, make cuts 1" - 1 ¬?" deep up the four sides of the root ball and cut an "X" across the bottom of the root ball.
Place the plant gently in the hole and position properly so the plant is straight. Fill the hole about half full with the soil that was dug. (Avoid amendments. Remember Rule #1 above? If you must, replace only one-third of the soil volume.) Loosen and break up compacted clumps of soil and discard rocks or debris. Lightly push the soil around the root ball. Water the soil thoroughly and continue to fill with soil until 3" below the root collar. Do not tamp the soil down. Water thoroughly again.
Mulch the area. Spread 2" – 4" of shredded hardwood or other organic mulch over the planting hole but keep mulch away from the stem or trunk of the plant.
Post-planting maintenance. The key to give your new fruits a healthy start is ample and timely moisture if we don't receive enough rain–about 1" per week. When to water? There is no magic formula…you need to stick your finger in the soil. Scratch away the mulch layer and check the soil several inches down. If dry, water slowly (2-3 hours) and deeply (8-18 inches).
Finally, unless your soil is nutritionally poor, don't fertilize. According to Dr. Jason Griffin, horticulture professor at the John C. Pair Horticultural Center in Haysville, Kansas, incorrect fertilizing can be detrimental and "can actually reduce root growth while encouraging the top of the tree to grow out of proportion to what the roots can support." Instead, apply a nice layer of compost each autumn.
This also appears in the Askov American, Askov, Minnesota.
Light frost. Killing frost. Hard freeze. Confusing terms, aren't they?
Technically, frost and freeze have different definitions but often, in the vernacular, are used interchangeably.
In the October/November 2009 issue of Horticulture magazine, Dr. Ed Brotak, a former meteorology professor, wrote, "Frost is the formation of white ice crystals on an exposed outside surface." He continued, "The major concern is for the water inside the plant. If this water freezes, then plant tissue damage is possible, if not likely." And while frost itself doesn't harm plants it can be "a good warning sign that plant damage has occurred or may occur."
Now that the terminology is clarified, what are important dates for our part of the country?
The best data I found is in an exhaustive report the National Climatic Data Center of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration compiled for 3,106 locations from 1951 – 1980. The report defines the various freezes as follows:
Light Freeze: 29 – 32. Tender plants killed with little destructive effect on other vegetation.
Moderate Freeze: 25 – 28. Widely destructive effect on most vegetation with heavy damage to fruit blossoms, tender and semi-hardy plants.
Severe Freeze: 24 or less. Heavy damage to most plants. The ground freezes solid with the depth of the frozen ground dependent on the duration and severity of the freeze, soil moisture and soil type.
Below is the chart for Hinckley with probability percentages for 36-, 32- and 28-degree temperatures. (I didn't think it necessary to check microfiche for temperatures of 24, 20 and 16!) The probabilities for 36 are included because temperature readings are taken about 5' above the ground and surface temperatures (i.e., where plant parts are) can be 4 – 8 degrees lower.
TEMPERATURE 10% PROBABILITY 50% PROBABILITY 90% PROBABILITY 36 Aug 23 Sep 8 Sep 23 32 Sep 9 Sep 19 Sep 29 28 Sep 15 Sep 28 Oct 10
While so far this has been a lovely September, clearly our warm days are numbered. Enjoy them while you can!
?Ø?í¬º After ground has thawed and dried, gently rake lawn using a rake with flexible tines to remove accumulated debris. ?Ø?í¬º Seed bare areas with seed suitable to site conditions. ?Ø?í¬º Mow right! Mow to 3" height. Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass blade at one time. Keep the mower blade sharp. ?Ø?í¬º Apply organic material as fertilizer (only if necessary) after grass has had one mowing. Consider soybean meal, blood meal, compost or well-aged manure. ?Ø?í¬º A very cool, organic option for annual crabgrass control is corn gluten meal, a byproduct of the milling process that was "discovered" at Iowa State University. Corn gluten meal inhibits root development of last year's weed seeds and also is an organic source of nitrogen. For more information, go to www.gluten.iastate.edu. ?Ø?í¬º Water newly seeded and sodded lawns if rainfall is less than 1" per week. Always water thoroughly to encourage deep, healthy roots. ?Ø?í¬º Leave grass clippings on the lawn. They do not produce thatch. Instead, clippings are a wonderful, cheap source of organic material.
This information also appeared in the Askov American, Askov, Minnesota.
One of the most common questions I field–no matter if stopped in the grocery store or called on the phone–is, "What can I do about all the deer in my garden?"
I wish I knew a quick, easy solution. I could make a fortune! But as this is a complex issue, the best answer requires a rather lengthy discussion.
Deer cause damage to landscapes in three ways: deer eat plants, males rub antlers against plants and males mark territories around plants. I'll address the worst of the problems, deer eating plants.
There are three solutions to explore: Plant Selection, Repellents and Fences.
Plant Selection Use plants that deer don't generally prefer. Even though there is no guaranteed, deer-proof plant, deer do seem to have preferences. There are also regional differences in deer browsing and probably even variations in individual tastes within a group of deer. If deer are hungry enough, they will likely eat plants they might otherwise have avoided.
Don't try to fool deer by hiding a preferred plant behind a plant they dislike. They'll sniff out that hosta and trample the lily-of-the-valley on their way into the garden.
Lists of Plants Deer Generally Dislike, Plants Deer Sometimes Like and Plants Deer Generally Like (Notice my repeated us of the word generally?) are posted elsewhere on this website.
Repellents There are two categories of repellents: odor-based and taste-based.
Like many wild animals, deer rely heavily on their sense of smell to warn of danger. Products containing strong-scented ingredients, including rotten eggs (Liquid Fence, Deer Away), garlic (Liquid Fence and Garlic Clips), bone tar (Magic Circle), predator urine, blood (Plantskydd), processed sewage (Milorganite) and deodorant soap can be placed around the garden to repel deer from entering the area.
Contact repellents are taste-based products which are sprayed directly onto plants. These products use ingredients such as hot pepper sauce, garlic oil, the bitter-tasting fungicide thiram (Bonide Deer Repellent), Bitrex (a bitter-tasting chemical added to products to deter children) and ammonium soaps of fatty acids (Hinder).
Deer Stopper is highly regarded to repel by both smell and taste. It is also certified organic by the EPA and registered for use on edible plants (as is Hinder).
Fences A fence is the most permanent and reliable deer control solution. Investing in a good fence will save heartache and probably, in the long run, money.
For small gardens, a fence need only be four feet high as deer avoid confined areas. For larger areas, an eight-foot tall, wire fence built with a 30-degree angle away from the garden is extremely effective. Adding electricity ratchets up the success due both to the shock the deer receives and the noise of the charge through the wires.
Obviously, fences aren't (generally) aesthetically pleasing and might not be suitable where children and pets are present.
Some final thoughts: • The most effective approach is to employ a combination of solutions. • Vary the repellent products used. • Reapply repellents every three or four weeks. • Think about timing. Repellents tend to be less useful during cold temperatures. • If deer are hungry enough, all of these solutions will likely fail.
We're entering the prime time for sowing seeds of annuals, vegetables and perennials which will be transplanted later into the outdoor garden. Even though I haven't been successful at growing plants from seeds, my gardening friend, Maureen, is. Every year she starts hundreds of plants from seeds. Not only can she have many cool cultivars in her garden that are difficult to find elsewhere but she saves a bundle of money!
After a small, up-front outlay for grow lights, flats or small containers and a heat source, the fun begins. Buy seeds! Browse catalogs, online resources and/or a favorite garden center.
Here are some good choices. • Renee's Garden • Seeds of Change • Seed Savers Exchange • Thompson and Morgan • Jung's • Burpee • Johnny's Selected Seeds
Then, remember these few, important points. • Use a sterile, soil-less planting medium. • Follow directions on seed packets about planting depth, scarification, cold treatment and other special needs. • Label flats or pots. • Be vigilant! Check every day for moisture. Monitor for the nasty and prevalent damping off fungal disease.
Have you heard this word before? Maybe not, but you've certainly observed what it means. A walk through any woods now will clarify it. More than likely, you'll see and hear marcescent foliage. It is striking and adds interest and color to the winter landscape.
Oak and beech genera exhibit marcescence. In our native forests, representative trees include red oak (Quercus rubra) and a favorite plant of mine, blue beech (Carpinus caroliniana, a.k.a., American hornbeam, ironwood and musclewood).
The definition of marcescence is "withering but not falling off." It is the opposite of abscission. In another entry (September 2007), I discussed the abscission layer and why leaves fall.
"Triggered by cool nights and short days, leaves reduce production of the enzyme that holds cells together and an abscission (separation) zone develops at the base of the leaf stem. Once that separation layer is complete, the leaf falls. Oak trees are an exception because the separation layer never fully develops and the leaf dies while still attached to the tree."
If, during winter, marcescent foliage isn't broken off by wind and snow, they eventually fall off in spring when a corky layer forms at the base of the petiole, or leaf stem. Those cork cells expand and eventually break which causes the leaf to fall. Coincidentally, this occurs when the buds of new leaves are swelling.
Botanists and plant physiologists aren't sure of the exact causes and consequences of marcescence. It may be more common on younger trees, or on new growth of older trees or on leaves high in the canopy that receive more sunlight. One remarkable benefit of these marcescent leaves is to protect exposed shoots from browsing deer and moose.
I have very fond memories of collegiate life and one forestry teacher stands out. He was the quintessential college professor–quirky, compelling and brilliant–and I absorbed all he taught like a sponge. My favorite class of his was woody plant identification through the use of keys. Our class followed him all over campus, somewhat like the Pied Piper, while we examined, sliced and occasionally tasted buds and twigs.
When keying woody deciduous plants, the first significant feature to discern is the arrangement of leaves on the steam, which can be alternate or opposite.* The majority of plants are alternate and my crotchety, bud-eating forestry prof taught me a trick or sort-of acronym for remembering which plants are which. The secret for plants with opposite leaf arrangements is:
MAD Cap Horse.
It stands for Maple-Ash-Dogwood Caprifoliaceae Horsechestnut.
Plants in the genera of maples, ashes and dogwoods are opposite. Caprifoliaceae is the family that includes honeysuckles, snowberries, diervillas and weigelas. Viburnums and elderberries were previously members of the Cap family but are now included in the Axodaceae. (Did my forestry teacher have to change his acronym?) All members of the horsechestnut family also have opposite leaf arrangements. (The botanical family name is actually Hippocastanaceae, but that would be a mouthful and wouldn't be nearly as memorable in his little phrase, would it?)
*In addition to the alternate and opposite arrangements, leaves may be also whorled (when more than two leaves are found at the same node) or subopposite (when leaves are almost, but not quite, opposite.)
The correct planting technique is absolutely critical to the long-term health of the plant. There are many repercussions but Stem Girdling Roots (SGR) is the most dreaded. SGR may not manifest itself for many years but by then it's often too late. What a shame! That spindly little thing you planted seven years ago has now matured into a gorgeous maple which perfectly shades your west-facing deck. Unfortunately, your specimen tree most likely will die because of incorrect planting procedures.
Here are three simple steps to accomplish that high-buck hole.
Dig the hole.
Dig a planting hole that is 2 – 3 times wider than the container and at a depth where the root collar will be 1" - 2" above the soil line. (The root collar is the flared area at the base of the stem or trunk where the first set of larger roots begins to grow out laterally. Finding the root collar may mean gently removing soil away from the stem or trunk on the top of the container.)
Slope and roughen up the sides of the hole. Do not loosen soil in the bottom of the hole as this could allow the plant to settle.
Plant the plant. Remove all tags, ribbons and tree guards. Find the root collar and remove any soil to expose it. If the plant is container-grown, carefully remove from the container. If it's difficult to remove, slice the pot on one side and around the bottom and then peel away the container. If the soil in the pot will not hold together, cut away the container once inside the planting hole.
If the root system is growing spirally around the container, make cuts 1" - 1 ¬?" deep up the four sides of the root ball and cut an "X" across the bottom of the root ball.
(If the plant is B&B (balled and burlapped), gently roll into hole. Remove twine, clip and fold back wire basket and trim burlap.)
Place the plant gently in the hole and position properly so the plant is straight. Fill the hole with the soil that was dug but loosen and break up compacted clumps and discard rocks or debris. Fill with soil until 1" to 2" below the root collar. Lightly push the soil around the root ball.
Water and mulch. Water the site thoroughly. Do not tamp the soil down. Spread 2" - 4" of shredded hardwood mulch over the planting hole but keep mulch 3" - 6" away from the stem or trunk of the plant.
My youngest brother lives in North Carolina (Zone 7) and we keep in touch by lengthy phone conversations. He is an avid gardener and we always update each other with a bloom report. If we happen to be talking in March when the upper Midwest is suffering a late winter blizzard and his redbuds and dogwoods are flowering, I can get cranky.
But I choose to live in Minnesota and I love it here. One compelling reason is the changing seasons. Another reason is, simply, fall. Our annual color display of fall foliage is unbeatable and I would miss it dreadfully if I lived in Zone 7.
Why do leaves change color and fall (no pun intended) off? The complete answer is complicated yet utterly fascinating and I like to review it each year.
Plants can be divided many ways: gymnosperms vs. angiosperms; woody vs. herbaceous; deciduous vs. evergreen. For this discussion, the critical distinction is deciduous vs. evergreen.
The definition of deciduous, botanically speaking, is "Not persistent. Parts (leaves) dropped in the fall." Deciduous is the opposite of evergreen which means "Remaining green throughout the year; not losing all the leaves at one time." (Even the needles and foliage of conifers and broad-leaved evergreens don't live forever and periodically fall.)
The next important point to consider is that evergreen trees continue functioning, growing and photosynthesizing all year. Deciduous plants don't and instead have a survival strategy called dormancy, a time period when growth is temporarily suspended. They have developed processes to prepare for dormancy–their foliage changes and falls off.
Yellow/Gold/Orange Leaf Color As the hours of sunlight decrease, plants produce less and less chlorophyll, the green pigment responsible for photosynthesis, until eventually no chlorophyll is produced at all. Other pigments, carotenes and xanthophylls, which always exist in the leaves but are masked by the presence of chlorophyll, become evident and produce yellow, gold and orange colors.
These colorations remain fairly constant from year to year because the two pigments are always present.
Red/Purple/Crimson Leaf Color Anthocyanins are water soluble pigments generally produced only in the fall, under certain conditions and by certain plants. The breakdown process of sugar (a byproduct of photosynthesis) that occurs in the leaves changes in the fall, leading to the synthesis of anthocyanins.
This production process is dependent on temperature and light levels. Clear, bright days with cool but not freezing nights produce greater amounts of anthocyanins and, therefore, more brilliant the leaf color. Often anthocyanins combine with carotenes and xanthophylls in leaves to produce the truly outstanding deep corals, vibrant reds and rich bronzes.
Leaf Fall Deciduous plants prepare for dormancy by shedding parts that are unable to withstand winter conditions. Trunks, branches and buds have the necessary cell structure to live during freezing temperatures but the cells of tender leaves contain watery sap and are vulnerable.
Triggered by cool nights and short days, leaves reduce production of the enzyme that holds cells together and an abscission (separation) zone develops at the base of the leaf stem. Once that separation layer is complete, the leaf falls.
Do you know the difference between herbs and spices? Since I'm passionate about plants and also love to cook, I became fascinated by the subject.
For centuries, herbs and spices have been utilized by humans in many important and different ways. They were used for culinary and medicinal purposes, in religious rituals and for traditional ceremonies such as weddings. In addition, herbs and spices were ingredients in practical products such as dyes, insect repellents, perfumes and cosmetics. They were once considered elite and quite costly. The true reason for the voyage of Columbus in 1492 was not to discover a new land but to seek a more direct route to the rich spices of the Orient.
While it can be difficult to discuss any subject in generalities, it's especially true with herbs and spices. Generally, herbs are leaves of low-growing plants and can be used fresh or dried. When dried, herbs can be whole, crushed or ground. Generally, spices are from flowers, fruits, seeds, bark and roots of tropical trees and plants.
For example: The herb, cilantro, is from the leaves of Coriandrum sativum and are indispensable in Mexican cooking. The seeds of the same plant are referred to as the spice coriander and are used completely differently in the kitchen.
While I've grown herbs for many years, all previous attempts at over-wintering them led to complete disaster as plant after plant developed insect infestations or slowly withered. But last year I devised my own method of winter storage.
My thyme and rosemary plants were exceptionally huge and healthy and grew late into the season. When I finally cleaned up the garden before snowfall, I couldn't bear to toss them into the compost bin. Instead, I cut branches of each plant, placed them in Ziploc plastic bags and stored the bags in the humidity-controlled vegetable bin of the refrigerator. The rosemary lasted until January and the thyme stayed fresh and usable until March.
As any good cook knows, top quality ingredients are critical to the success or failure of a dish. Darina Allen from Ballymaloe Cookery School in Ireland once said, "Success in cooking is 80% shopping." Ergo, good quality herbs and spices, with an emphasis on freshness, are crucial supplies in any kitchen. Generally, herbs and ground spices last one year and whole spices last two years. So every December, I pitch the contents of my herb and spice jars and, to start the new year with a fresh supply, I go shopping.
Several years ago, on the recommendation of a cooking mentor, I visited Penzey's Spices on Grand Avenue in St. Paul. What a cool store! I like to shop there for the products as much as to relish the warm, spicy smell of the place. The selection is wonderful and the quality is excellent. If one can forgo the atmosphere, Penzey's herbs and spices are also available by mail order and online.
One of my favorite ideas for a hostess gift is an herbal bouquet–beautiful, fragrant and useful! I cut several stems of maybe five or six herbs, combining different plants but always including interesting textures, forms, colors and scents. I then fill a glass canning jar with fresh water, arrange the herbs, and voila!
The lawn care industry in the United States is huge and has become too unhealthy and complicated with endless herbicide and fertilizer products. If you can get over the myth of a 100% weed-free lawn there are excellent solutions for a healthy ecosystem.
Grass is a plant (duh!) and needs good soil for vigorous growth which in turn inhibits weed growth. Cool, huh? For a simplified and eco-friendly approach, understand and follow the few key details mentioned below. But remember, timing is critical!
Key Points
• Match grass species to site. True with other plants…true with grass also. • Mow right. Mow to 3" height. Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass blade at one time. Keep the mower blade sharp. • Water right. Proper watering encourages deep, healthy roots. • Leave grass clippings on the lawn. They do not produce thatch. Resist the urge to be a neat-nik. • Don't use a pre-emergent or broadleaf herbicide on the entire lawn. Shade trees, shrubs and flowers are broadleaf plants! Instead, spot spray weeds. • Use composted organic material for fertilizing. It contains elements other than nitrogen and potassium for healthy soil.
Calendar
• April/May: After ground has thawed and dried, rake gently using a lawn rake with flexible tines to remove accumulated debris. Apply composted organic material as fertilizer (if necessary) after grass has had one mowing. Seed grass if August/September time frame doesn't work. • June/July: Don't fertilize. Don't water low maintenance lawns–let them become dormant during dry periods. Water high maintenance lawns as necessary. • August/September: Apply composted organic material as fertilizer (if necessary) when temperatures cool. Seed between August 15 and September 15 if necessary. Aerate if necessary. • October: Apply last and most important application of composted organic fertilizer. Mow a final time, rake leaves and remove other debris before the snow flies.
